A Local Favorite Anchors the Community
West Adams, Los Angeles
LOS ANGELES - The history of Mel’s Fish Shack is a humble one. In 1982, Mel Powell was a successful entrepreneur looking to start his own Mexican restaurant. After receiving advice from his friends, however, he decided to open a seafood establishment that served Louisiana-style fried fish. He set up shot in a small building on Jefferson Boulevard with 600 square feet of floor space. Located in the heart of the West Adams neighborhood, the restaurant quickly became a neighborhood favorite.
“It didn’t take long for us to gain a good reputation,” said Georgette Powell, the daughter of the late Mr. Powell.
Georgette began helping around the restaurant when she was nine-years-old. A genuine family-owned place, Mel’s has been managed by the Powells since the start. When Mel passed away, Georgette took the reigns and continued the tradition of what she calls “providing the best product possible to our customers. That's what it comes down to.”
The storefront is extremely nondescript. It is easy to pass by while driving down Jefferson without giving it a second glance. But Georgette explained that the quality of the fish has kept the place in business through the decades.
“We can compete with anyone in L.A. The high-end places in Beverly Hills, the McCormick and Schmick’s — we provide just as good of fish at half the price,” said Georgette. She went on the explain that many fish suppliers source their seafood from the same place, and that they have been going to the same fish supplier near the Port of Los Angeles in Long Beach for years.
Still, some are surprised by Mel’s ability to survive for so long. It has moved locations once, from Jefferson and Buckingham Road to the corner of Jefferson and Farmdale Avenue — a mere five blocks. Since then, fast food chains have sprung up all along Crenshaw Boulevard and La Brea Avenue, drawing customers away from Mel’s. Georgette said that it was a fight to stay afloat.
“We’ve had to be aggressive. People will keep returning for what they like here, but we had to pull in new customers some other way. So, we used the Internet,” she said. For the past several years, Mel’s has maintained a vibrant presence online. They have their own website, and encourage everyone to write a Yelp review after their meal. They have a four-and-a-half star rating on the site, and use promotional programs like Groupon to lure in new diners.
Georgette takes pride in Mel's role as a landmark in the African-American community of South Los Angeles. To keep the legacy alive, she regularly participates in events like the Taste of Soul, a cultural festival of food and dance that takes place each year along Crenshaw Boulevard (you can view a separate story on the Taste of Soul by clicking here.).
“Sometimes, we struggle to break even at these events. But it’s important for us to support who we grew up with,” said Georgette.
The Fish Shack has a genuinely loyal fan base. People come from around the region to get the homemade fried taste they crave.
“I’ve been coming here from Palmdale for ten years now,” said Priscilla Osborne. “It’s a family place, and you want to patronize that.”
For some, it’s the first stop when they fly into Los Angeles.
“I’m only here for a few days on business, but I always have to stop at Mel’s,” said Stan Crawford, a displaced Angelino who now lives in Dallas.
Georgette noted that part of its fame has come from famous people themselves. Members of The Jackson 5, Miles Davis and Snoop Dogg have all waited in line for their taste of fried, crispy goodness.
The food itself does not disappoint. The breading is light and fluffy, and just thick enough to provide a satisfying crunch. Each meal is served alongside Louisiana hot sauce and tartar sauce, as well as a choice of sides. The author recommends the hushpuppies, a Southern classic that would be at home in any Atlanta diner.
Georgette said that the salmon is a perennial favorite, but that the sole's flaky white meat makes for the best pairing with the breading.
Whatever you choose to order, be sure to talk with Georgette during your visit. You will leave with a good story and the satisfaction of patronizing an old-fashioned neighborhood fixture that refuses to change with the times.
| Watch a video about Mel's here. |
Questions? Email the author here.